How to Spend Two Days in Monterey, California

One of the shows I re-watch the most is Big Little Lies. There's something comforting about the opening intro, the crashing waves and shots of Bixby Bridge interlaced with beautiful people, all set in a soft, lowly saturated color palette. 

So when I had the opportunity to visit Monterey, I jumped on the chance. I had to know if this pocket of California was truly as dreamy as tv makes it. Spoiler: it is. 

Drive From San Francisco to Big Sur on Highway 1

While Monterey does have an airport, I flew directly from Boston to San Fransisco, forgoing layovers for a short road trip. Even down Highway 1 (aka the Pacific Coast Highway or PCH or Hwy 1), the drive is only about two hours of scenic views. 

Just be warned: You will also want to consider the weather. Which is to say, the central coast is nothing like Los Angeles. Just because there are palm trees doesn't mean you'll find heat.  

During the summer, the marine layer in this part of California can hang low long into the day, making this plan more of a roll of the dice than you'd think. Pack your favorite sweaters because the temperatures hang in a cozy, damp 50 - 75 degree Fahrenheit range, depending on where you are on the coast or how far inland you travel. I wasn't sure if the fall weather wardrobe was just Hollywood magic, but you really do need to layer – even in the middle of July. 

Thanks to that foggy marine layer, starting the drive from the north can be a coin toss. Thankfully, as we drove from San Francisco towards Half Moon Bay, the fog lifted just enough for breathtaking views of the pacific ocean and northern California's rocky coast. 

Stop at Pigeon Point Lighthouse

The drive from San Francisco to Big Sur is about two hours. But there are so many great overlooks, lighthouses, and beaches along the way that you'll want to budget extra time for taking photos and exploring. 

Since I was on a tight travel schedule, I didn't make a lot of stops along the drive. However, one place I did make time for was Pigeon Point Lighthouse, the west coast's tallest lighthouse. While the lighthouse itself is currently being restored (construction begins in late 2023), with plans for future visitors to be able to tour the inside, there is a museum on the grounds. Inside, you'll find the original 16-foot fall Fresnel lens used to warn ships in the fog and other interesting information about lighthouses, the west coast, and Pigeon Point. 

A keen eye may even spot sea lions, otters, or whales off the shores. 

While exploring Pigeon Point, I learned the property is also a hostel. If you want, you can book a room (or bed) on the lighthouse grounds. Just keep in mind these are hostel lodgings, not a hotel, so there are only communal bathrooms for each cottage (rather than ensuite bathrooms). 

If you miss Pigeon Point or want to see more lighthouses, this is only one of fifteen along Hwy 1. Some lighthouses may require prior reservations to tour, however. Visiting Big Sur Light, for instance, requires booking a private three-hour tour—another thing I want to go back and do when I have more time.  

You can, however, get great photos of the Big Sur Light and the island it sits on top of from the car (as long as you're not driving). Using my iPhone's live mode, I could capture astounding views without building in another hour or two just to stop for photos. 

Bixby Bridge is the exception to stopping for pictures, but you'll want to stop when you're on your way back up to Monterey. More on that later. 

Late Afternoon Lunch in Big Sur 

Late Afternoon Lunch in Big Sur 

There is no shortage of places with great views along Highway 1 to grab a late lunch or early dinner. If country-style food is what you're craving, I can't recommend Big Sur River Inn & Restaurant enough. 

Even though the weather wasn't super warm, my friends and I made it down to the river where the Inn has Adirondack chairs sit in the water. Guests can bring the food and drink they've ordered down to the chairs and spend the afternoon with their feet in the cold, clear, refreshing Big Sur river. 

If you're looking for an elevated experience – literally – you can keep driving south to Alila Ventana. Besides being an adults-only resort, Ventana is home to The Sur House, whose terrace has ocean views high above the coastline. Here, you'll find a great cocktail list and Big Sur-inspired food menu mixed with a cool, relaxed atmosphere. 

The Sur House does take reservations, but you're also welcome to enjoy a drink at the terrace bar while you wait for a table. Food can also be ordered at the bar, but your entire party must have seats before you can put in an order. 

In the middle of these two experiences is Nepenthe. Still, further south down Highway 1, Nepenthe is also perched high above the Pacific Ocean. Here, you'll find a great Americana-inspired menu (they're known for their Ambrosia Burger) and breathtaking views of the cliffs, mountains, and ocean below. If you're eating solo or with one other companion, you can request a seat on the outer rim of the restaurant, giving you an uninterrupted view while you dine. 

A pro tip for Nepenthe is to time getting here perfectly, especially during peak season. We arrived around 2 p.m. on a Saturday and had about a 30-minute wait. 

Photo Stop at Bixby Creek Bridge

As tempting as stopping on the way down to Big Sur is, wait to grab photos of Bixby for the return trip. Not only will the light be a little more dramatic (marine layer depending), but it's easier to find a parking spot in the pull-off you can access from that side of the highway. Plus, there are safe spots to grab great photos of the bridge with the ocean behind it. 

When I was there in mid-July, tourists were coming and going non-stop, so be prepared for people jockeying for photo spots. If you're looking to get the best views with the least tourists, try and plan your trip for September. Otherwise, be mindful of how you feel about large crowds and heights, as you'll be battling both. 

Whale Watching in Monterey Bay

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The same is true for Monterey. Fisherman's Warf is full of restaurants and souvenir shops — and people. A lot of people speaking a lot of languages, moving in a lot of different directions, all swept up in the magic of Monterey. I initially walked down the warf early, when everything was still closed up. Everyone there was headed in one direction: the whale-watching tour boats. 

Walking onto the wharf, you may see sea lions resting on the rocks next to the pier: your first of many wildlife encounters of the day. TV fans may also recognize the spot as the cafe in the first season of Big Little Lies (though the restaurant scenes were filmed elsewhere). 

When you get down to the whale-watching tour boats, pay attention to the names on the boots. There are a few different companies that all have tours that go out at similar times. But if you end up at the wrong place, don't worry; everyone is super helpful and happy to point you in the right direction. You aren't the first person who has gone to the wrong place, and you won't be the last. 

I took a three-hour tour with Monterey Bay Whale Watch – Monterey's original whale-watching tour company – where we had multiple whale encounters. I'd only ever seen whales in captivity (pre-Blackfin days) and definitely never a humpback. It was incredible to not only have whales within 100 feet of our boat but also to watch how they interacted with boats, each other, and the packs of sea lions also hunting nearby. 

Besides a pack of meclizine (non-drowsy Dramamine), don't forget something warm to wear and sunscreen for your face. Even though it might be cold and cloudy, you can still end up with a sunburned face. Ask me how I know. 

Monterey Bay Aquarium 

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No matter your age, Monterey Bay Aquarium has to be on your list of things to do while you're in Monterey, California. Considered one of the best aquariums in the world, prepare to spend a few hours wandering the halls and watching the various creatures swimming through the postcard view of what their homes would look like in the wild. 

If you time your day just right, you can catch an animal feeding or two. We saw the last otter feeding of the day at the beginning of our aquarium visit and then took a lazy stroll through the building. 

At one point during our wander, we found ourselves sitting and watching life in the Open Ocean exhibit. Taking a seat on benches on the second floor, we sat for a while, watching the sardines build shapes of bigger fish and scatter as sharks swam through their formations. At one point, we got especially emotionally invested in one sardine that got lost from the rest of its pack. While the little guy almost became a snack for a giant sea turtle, he rejoined the growing storm of sardines. 

Other Monterey Bay Aquarium highlights include the 28-foot giant kelp forest, the largest kelp forest exhibit in the world, and their "Sandy Shore & Aviary" exhibit.  

Dinner in Monterey

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There is no shortage of great choices for dinner in Monterey, California. Whether you stick in Monterey or head up to nearby Carmel-by-the-Sea, you'll be able to find great food that will please even the pickiest eater. 

For great wine and charcuterie, check out Sovino Wine Bar. Located on Alvarado Street across from Portola Hotel and Spa, this little spot has been a local favorite for almost a decade. If you're in Monterey on a weeknight and looking for something to do, Sovino does trivia on Wednesdays. 

Locals also love Estéban Restaurant, which is where we chose to go after visiting the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Located inside the Casa Munras Garden Hotel & Spa, Estéban's menu is the perfect blend of Spain and Monterey: a Spanish-inspired menu made with locally grown, in-season ingredients. You can read my full review/overview of the amazing meal on Instagram. 

If you want to go all out and have a foodie introduction to the California coast, head to Aubergine in Carmel-by-the-Sea. At this Michelin-star restaurant, you'll find unique dishes inspired by the easygoing luxury that seems to ooze from the central coast's pores. Located inside L'Auberge Carmel, guests enjoy an eight-course tasting menu that changes daily. If the 3,500-bottle wine list scares you, you can ask for sommelier pairings with each course instead. 

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